That is,
until I discovered the genuinely accessible King’s Trail in Lapland, northern
Sweden. With meticulously well-marked trails, a gentle gradient, and frequent,
staffed and stocked huts, this popular multi-section trail makes an Arctic
journey entirely doable for a wide range of people. An average cross-country
skier in moderate shape with a taste for adventure can reasonably take on the
challenge and ski one of the stretches. And with a guide, the trip is even more
accessible.
The King’s
Trail, or Kungsleden, was built in 1917 as a way to get youth outdoors, and was
dubbed the “king of all trails”. The Swedish Tourism Association (STF is the
common Swedish acronym) built and maintains the trail. Much of the trail is
north of the Arctic Circle.

The extensive
hut network includes the possibility of buying canned or dried food in every
second hut, meaning that you never need to carry more than a couple of day’s
worth of food at a time. There are even wood-fired saunas beside many of the
huts!
I’m a big
fan of hut to hut ski travel, so I was intrigued when I heard about this trail.
My husband and I live in Montreal, Canada and have already made a good dent
into the numerous hut to hut possibilities near where we live. We were planning
a family visit in Europe and convinced ourselves that a quick “detour” to
Sweden’s Arctic was justifiable along the way. We settled on a 70-km long
stretch from Nikkaluokta to Saltoluokta, the “second most popular” section,
mostly because we could squeeze it into a week, but also because this section has
fewer crowds and a more varied landscape. The most popular section extends from
Abisko to the north and finishes 105 km later in Nikkaluokta, and also seems
fantastic. The trail stays above treeline longer, and skiers are surrounded by
craggy peaks for most of the trip. It’s even more popular for hiking in summer
months. The STF provided extensive, extremely useful advice, helping me choose
the best section for us, and answering all of my detailed questions.
![]() |
The "second most popular section" - the one we did |
Montreal –
Stockholm – Kiruna - Nikkaluokta
And so in
early March 2015, we flew to Stockholm. March
and April are the most popular months to ski because days are increasingly
long, weather is warmer and the snow is still good. The Swedes tend to favour
spring skiing and long sunny days in April, whereas the tough Finns favour the
darkness, solitude and harsh conditions of February, or so we were told. STF
huts aren’t staffed until late February when the light begins to return, and
this can vary depending on the location so be sure to check before you go. We came
across a few non-STF huts run by local organisations along the way but it would
be harder to figure out who to contact for information about each of them.
Though our
flight from Montreal was delayed by 6 hours, we were still able to catch our
overnight train, arriving the following afternoon in Kiruna, an Arctic mining
town around 1200 km north of Stockholm. We connected with a short local bus
that brought us to our starting point in the Sami village of Nikkaluokta. Before
turning in, we went out for a quick ski and saw our first white Arctic animals:
Arctic hare and ptarmigan. We stayed in a cabin with a simple kitchen but opted
to eat at the restaurant and sample some of the wild food on the menu. At the Nikkaluokta
Sarri AB family-run accommodations and restaurant, traditional Sami objects and
paintings adorn the walls.
The next
morning, we met the owner, Anna Sarri, who answered my many questions about life
in Nikkaluokta. She explained that her grandparents settled here in the early
20th century and helped the STF build Kebnekaise, a historic “Mountain
Station” and major accommodations at the foot of Sweden’s highest slope (2103
metres). I was fascinated to hear that she not only copes with the entirely
dark season in late December, but actually relishes the slower pace and calm
energy it brings.
Day 1 –
Nikkaluokta to Kebnekaise (19 km)
We finally set
off along the trail, following the ubiquitous big red X’s on the signposts. We
admired the quiet landscape, frozen lakes and low mountains around us. There
were only a few scraggy birches. A slight headwind intensified as the day
progressed. Snow began to fall, and as the wind picked up, began pummeling us
in the face on its relentless, horizontal path. It seemed like an inauspicious
start to our “accessible” Arctic expedition. Any Arctic expedition is not
without its challenges, I told myself, as visibility decreased and I laboured
to stay within sight of my husband, just metres ahead of me. We were grateful
to have brought downhill ski goggles, neoprene facemasks and balaclavas. Even
in the mild weather, just below freezing, it wouldn’t take long to get
frostbite in these conditions. We focused on the making out the next red marker
and staying on track.
The ski
trails are marked but not machine tracked, although other skiers, snowmobiles
and dog teams may come through depending on the section. This stretch would
also have been possible by snowmobile transfer. It’s recommended to carry a
bivvy sack (tent-like bag) in case you need to stop in the wind, a shovel to
dig a snow shelter, a compass and topographical map.
In the
restaurant, we were seated next to other travelers and traded stories of our
day. A young couple from Scotland was just finishing their ski trip, having
made it all the way from Abisko with almost no prior skiing experience! The STF
also organizes guided tours and accepts beginners, as do numerous private
companies. On the other end of the spectrum, serious backcountry/downhill
skiers come to Kebnekaise to climb up and ski down the powder slopes.
Day 2 –
Kebnekaise to Singi (14 km)
Surprisingly,
we had the hut at Singi all to ourselves. The hut was staffed by a “guardian”
(warden), Jöm, who showed us the ropes of hut life along the King’s Trail.
Guests must fulfill certain duties, such as hauling water up from a nearby
stream and chopping wood to heat the cabin. Each STF hut has a warden, friendly
volunteers who opt to spend a couple of months keeping the place running
smoothly and living in a spectacular, remote setting in exchange. Wardens have
access to weather forecasts, which they enthusiastically (and sometimes
insistently) share with skiers, and also have the means to call for emergency
help if needed.
You can’t
reserve a spot in an STF hut, but no one gets turned away. There’s always an
extra mattress that can be squeezed in somewhere. Some times of the year may be
busier than others, such as holidays; it would be worth consulting the STF to
avoid peak times. Huts provide mattresses, warm blankets, cooking stoves,
cookware, wood, dishes, candles and toilet paper. Bring along a sleeping bag
liner and the usual emergency gear and clothing you’d usually have on this kind
of trip. You can save a few dollars per night by paying for the huts ahead of
time. Otherwise, you’ll need to bring enough cash to pay for the huts, food and
bus trips along the way.
Day 3 –
Singi to Kaitumjaure (13 km)
Day 4 –
Kaitumjaure to Teusajaure (9 km)
Our fourth
day of skiing became extremely windy but was mercifully short. It was once again
hard to see the next trail marker. Suddenly, in the distance, we could make out
a group of 6 skiers hauling massive sleds called pulkas, skiing at a perfectly
synchronized pace. We met them later in the day and learned that they were from
Finland, out winter camping for 2 weeks!
Our short
and stormy route ended in an abrupt, 500 m downhill through a gnarled birch
forest. As the gradient increased I resorted to “bum skiing”, arriving in style
at Teusajeure hut to the bewilderment of the hut warden Curt and his
well-behaved Rottweiler.
Curt has
been spending time in these mountains since childhood, venturing off the beaten
track onto the many side trails and even off-trail. This was his 25th
season as a hut warden, a retirement project for himself and his wife.
That
afternoon, I tried my hand at chopping wood, a task that I had otherwise left
to my husband Fred. Sweden prides itself on being a gender-equal society, so I
figured I’d better step up to the challenge! There was a wood-fired sauna at
Teusajaure, which added to my motivation. Every other hut (or so) has a sauna,
a relatively recent addition. You can heat water and clean off, a novelty
compared to my hut experiences in Quebec. Bring your own soap and towel. We
gleefully ducked into this tiny, piping hot sauna with a big mountain view,
scrambling and whooping as we periodically cooled off by jumping in the snow
outside.
Day 5 –
Teusajaure to Vakkotavare (16 km)
We got an
early start the next day, crossed Teusajaure’s frozen lake and set out to climb
400 m, made easy by the climbing skins we had brought. The horizon was nearly
endless and at times it looked like Fred was skiing straight up into the sky.
We crossed an empty, U-shaped streambed. Soon after, I was thrilled to come
across wolverine tracks. People rarely get to see these elusive creatures, but
their tracks are fairly common in the area. As we reached the highest point of
the day, some of Sweden’s biggest mountains came into view. The sun shone
brightly and the air was perfectly still. We felt so fortunate for this
beautiful weather which allowed us to fully appreciate our surroundings. We
started to ski down the other side of the hill, turning back and forth, free to
ski wherever we wanted, and not just on the trail – the advantage of skiing above
treeline. This was what we had come here for!
Birches
started making their appearance as we skied further downhill and the trail
dipped around a series of tiny hills called moors. The day ended with another
long, crazy downhill through the trees to Vakkotavare hut, a vast lake, and a
bus stop! This would be the end of the trail for us.
The lake
across from Vakkotavare hut is stunning and vast, dotted with numerous
snowmobiles parked beside ice-fishing holes. The hut itself is a funny place,
because it’s literally in front of a bus stop. Skiers and hikers continuing
south catch the bus here to get to Saltoluokta – a slight discontinuity in the
King’s Trail before the next official section.
Vakkotavare
– Saltoluokta (by bus)
The next
morning we caught the once-per-day bus heading back in the direction of
Galliväre, another mining town. We opted to stop over at Saltoluokta, just 40
minutes from Vakkotavare. To reach this renowned Mountain Lodge, we had to get
off the bus at the “Kebnats” stop, and then ski 4 km across a frozen lake.
There was also the option to pay for a quick shuttle by snowmobile, but it
struck me as absurd to “pay to not ski”.
Swedes
speak fondly of Saltoluokta. It’s a warm, friendly lodge with a historic feel.
The food is fresh and home-made, featuring local ingredients, and lived up to
its reputation. We made good use of the wood sauna with a view. And greatly enjoyed
seeing families from Eritrea and Iran being introduced to winter as part of a
settlement program in northern Sweden. That night we were finally treated to
Northern Lights, a spectacle that reliably entertains visitors whenever the sky
is clear.
Saltoluokta
– Gallivare (by bus)
And thus
began our journey back home. We took the bus to the small northern city of Gallivare,
and then the overnight train back to Stockholm.
All in all,
the King’s Trail is a great playground for would-be Arctic explorers. It is
just remote enough to require some clear thinking and planning, yet makes the
grandiose, endless white landscapes accessible to so many.
Practical
Information and Hints
Stockholm
Arlanda ARN is the main airport. Many trains stop here so you may not need to
go into Stockholm at all. The Arlanda Express takes 30 minutes and there are
frequent departures. www.arlandaexpress.com
Train
schedule: www.sj.se.
When we finally got around to buying tickets, the train we wanted appeared to
be sold out on this website. Fortunately, we found tickets on http://www.scandinavianrail.com/ for the same train, and they were even a bit
less expensive.
Kebnekaise
Mountain Station: https://www.svenskaturistforeningen.se/anlaggningar/stf-kebnekaise-fjallstation/
Saltoluokta
Mountain Station: https://www.svenskaturistforeningen.se/anlaggningar/stf-saltoluokta-fjallstation/
Currency:
SEK (Swedish krona).
In December
2015, 1 SEK = 0.15 CAD
Cost of
this trip: In 2015, this trip cost us approximately $800 (CAD) per person,
starting at the Stockholm airport, including transportation, accommodation,
food etc., for about 9 days (including 6 full days of skiing).
Food in the
huts cost around 100-200 SEK/person/day
Huts cost
us around 300 SEK/night/person
There is no
cost to access the trails or parks.
STF
membership (gives access to better rates on lodging and food): 295 SEK/adult or
450 SEK for a family
Example of
an STF-guided trip along the northern-most stretch: https://www.svenskaturistforeningen.se/aktiviteter/lappland-kungsleden-abisko-kebnekaise-vinter/
8 days at a cost of $1125 for intermediate-level skiers, not including
transportation to Abisko (the starting point) and from Kiruna (the ending
point). runs from March 12 – April 9, 2016.
The STF
also organizes beginner ski trips in the region, but not this exact itinerary.
Approximate
altitudes of the huts we visited:
Nikkaluokta,
450 m
Kebnekaise Fjallstation,
720 m
We climbed
a bit after that and came back down
Singi, 700 m
Kaitumjaure, 620 m
Teusajaure, 500 m
We climbed
up to around 900 m and then skied back down
Vakkotavare,
480 m
***
A huge thank
you to the STF, to the lovely hut wardens we met, to Anna Sarri in Nikkaluokta,
for welcoming us and helping us with our trip, and to my husband Frédéric who shared
this experience with me!
Good work on this post! I really like the way you delivered your qualitative facts and how you made this fascinating and effortless to realize. Thank you!!
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ReplyDeleteGreat story, couldn't stop reading this, keep posting please !
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